Domaine Baudouin Millet
Though Domaine Baudouin Millet is a producer of superb value classic Chablis it has a decidedly non-classical background. Long-time cereal farmer Philippe Millet only turned his hand to grape growing in the 1980s, subsequently aided by his sons Paterne and Baudouin. The domaine changed name to Baudouin Millet in 2011, when the younger son fully assumed the reins of the wine side of the business.
Today the domaine encompasses nine hectares of AOC Petit Chablis, based near Poilly-sur-Serein, four hectares of AOC Chablis in Beru and Viviers in the south east of the region, plus one hectare in 1er Cru Vaucoupin. They also source fruit from Les Preuses and Vaudesir to release tiny amounts of Grand Cru, plus there is some Bourgogne Blanc and Cremant de Bourgogne. The family winery is in the village of Tonnerre, to the east of Chablis.
In the vineyard Baudouin avoids extremism and defines his philosophy as ‘lutte ultra raisonée’, interfering as little as possible.
In the cellar, they use no oak at all, save for a little on their rare amounts of Grand Cru releases. All other wines are fermented and matured ‘cuve inox,’ in stainless steel tank, with extended time on lees.
Stylistically, his wines are pure and fine but with more ripeness than many Chablis producers, who seek acidity and refreshment above flavour. Historically they harvest about one week later than their neighbours. They seek ‘vrai maturité’, real ripeness, which is reflected in the intensity and depth of the finished wines.