Unico Zelo
— About —
THE OWNERS – BRENDAN & LAURA CARTER
To understand Unico Zelo is to understand the differing and yet complimentary personalities of the owners Brendan & Laura Carter. Brendan is the energetic, creative, untiring and frankly fearless dynamo that has helped push the boundaries of their brand from inception in 2014. I’ve always found spending time with Brendan is like taking a dip in the fountain of youth, a post glow of re-invigoration.
Laura, whom has been overseeing the majority of Unico Zelo’s winemaking for the past few vintages has this genuine calming aura about her, a disarming quality that is very natural. A very intelligent lady, considered with her words and approach to winemaking bound together with a passion for both wine and the connection to the environment.
Brendan started out studying a law degree but was drawn to the wine industry and switched paths, first working at Veuve Cliquot and Jacobs Creek where they suggested starting a winemaking degree. During his first year at Adelaide University he met Laura who was studying Environmental science. In 2011 Brendan was awarded a scholarship whilst studying to go to Italy and visit some of the iconic wine regions and being the charmer he is took Laura along to share in this amazing experience.
With a sheepish smile Laura admits that at the time she “couldn’t understand why people were so passionate about wine” but attributes that first visit to Barolo, Campania and Sicily that really changed her perspective, particularly the connective aspects to the people, culture, food and ultimately the environment.
Returning back to Australia the next few years really saw the acceleration of their experience in wine production and ultimately their desire to create a wine brand of their own. Brendan alongside his studies worked with the likes of Steve Pannell & Peter Leske whilst Laura got a placement at Henschke working in their lab for 2 vintages, in fact ended up working full time post her degree as a cellar hand.
A trip back to Europe in 2014 saw Brendan working a vintage at the iconic G.D Vajra in Barolo but perhaps the defining part of the trip was when they both visited Campania again, specifically to visit some of the smaller yet highly sought after Fiano producers in Avellino. This sparked what would be the inspiration of their initial success of Unico Zelo, championing this grape and the vision to produce single region Fiano’s from Riverland, Clare Valley and Adelaide Hills.
THE FIRST VINTAGES
Although they made their first wine independently in 2012 the first wines released under a Unico Zelo label were in 2013, in the form of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Rose from Adelaide Hills, made at humble rented shed in Lobethal in the Old Wollen Mills.
In 2014 they purchased the old coal stores in Gumaracha in the Adelaide Hills as the shell for their own winery. This was also the year they made their first Fiano and Muscat d’Alessandria, the latter became the base for their very successful ‘Orange’ wine Esoterico.
‘FINDING RIVERLAND’ – FIANO AND NERO D’AVOLA
Whist at Steve Pannell Brendan worked alongside and became friends with Bart Van Olphen, partner of Kim Chalmers. Most would agree Kim Chalmers has been one of, if not the pioneer in promoting ‘alternate varietals’ in Australia. In addition Kim Chalmers had studied the same degree as Laura, environmental science and as such the four of them struck up a great relationship. They shared their passion of alterative varietals that were a more sustainable option for the Australia climate and an exciting development in the Riverland called Ricca Terra Farms.
Ricca Terra Farms is owned and managed by Ashley Radcilffe. Ashley was working as the viticulturist for Yalumba and their affordable varietal brand called Oxford Landing, of which the latter was almost entirely sourced from growers in the Riverland. Ashley could see the challenges faced by the growers, especially around the cost of water usage due to the varieties they were growing. Tough part was that he was finding it hard to convince the growers to change, and who could blame when the market was demanding the varieties they had planted and it would be a big risk to plant alternate ones despite the potential cost saving of water. After all, if you can’t sell the grapes to anyone what good is it if you have saved money in the production?
Ashley decided the only way was to take the leap and lead from the front. He purchased his own vineyards and replanted with Fiano and Nero d’Avola, both varietals that could be grown with a significantly smaller water footprint and that could retain natural acids in the heat of the Riverland. He also helped connect smaller growers in the region with smaller wineries/start up brands to help promote the region.
Brendan and Laura met Ashley at the Alternate varieties wine show in 2014 and it became the catalyst of a great working relationship, including the launch and ongoing success of Fiano and Nero d’Avola from the Riverland by Unico Zelo.
WINEMAKING – FIANO
The same for all 3 vineyards. 48 hours of skin contact in the crusher after picking. Pressed then wild fermented in tank. racked off gross lees post ferment. 9 months elevage on fine lees. Occasional battonage during ageing
WINEMAKING – NERO D’AVOLA
All hand picked. A few year’s ago I visited Unico Zelo’s Nero vineyard in Birdwood and asked Brendan why don’t they machine harvest for economic reasons, particularly for the grapes destined for the wonderfully affordable Fresh AF Nero blend. He laughed at the time, recalling the vintage they attempted to do just that. One of varietal characteristics of Nero is lots and lots of canopy, like an army of green leafy octopuses waving in the wind as you walk down the vineyard. Hence when one attempts to machine harvest you end up apparently with as many leaves as you do grape bunches. Not an attractive ferment.
All Nero’s spend 7 days on skins during fermentation, pressed off to barrel. Elevage in 2nd year fill oak barrel and foudre.