Domaine Baudouin Millet


— About —

Domaine Baudouin Millet was originally known as Domaine Millet, established in the 1980s when cereal farmer Philippe Millet in the village of Tonnerre was asked to purchase some land he was at the time leasing for wheat production. The astute landholder mentioned that much of the property happened to be within the AOC Petit Chablis appellation and would he perhaps like to plant grape vines? Potentially more profitable for Philippe and definitely more profitable for the neighbour, such was the value of Chablis land under vine rather than other crops.

The deal was done, and nine hectares of Petit Chablis wheat fields were thus planted to Chardonnay, and Domaine Millet was born, alongside the existing agricultural business, La Ferme de Marcault. The family continued as cereal farmers until very recently.

Philippe’s sons gradually entered the business, initially elder brother Paterne, and then in 2001 younger brother Baudouin. Philippe was making good Chablis but lacked any type of business brain. Baudouin, fresh of a business degree and a budding career as, shock horreur, a wine rep for Pernod Ricard, righted the ship, and subsequently a new company was established in 2011 as Philippe moved into retirement – Domaine Baudouin Millet.

Today, the Domaine encompasses the initial nine hectares of Petit Chablis, based in the commune of Poilly-sur-Serein, four hectares of AOC Chablis in Beru and Viviers in the very far east of the Chablis region, plus one hectare in 1er Cru Vaucoupin. They also source some fruit from Les Preuses and Vaudesir to release tiny amounts of Grand Cru, plus there is some Bourgogne Blanc and Cremant de Bourgogne.

Their cellar is in the village of Tonnerre, to the east of Chablis and most definitely not in the heart of wine country – it is 10 mins drive to find the nearest vine, a hangover from their previous agricultural endeavours!

 

THE PHILOSOPHY

In the vineyard Baudouin avoids extremism and defines his philosophy ‘lutte ultra raisonée’. They interfere in the vineyard as little as possible, doing half as many vineyard treatments as many biodynamic producers. All treatments are acutely reasoned, never systematic.

Stylistically, his wines are pure and fine but with more ripeness than many Chablis producers, who seek acidity and refreshment above flavour. Historically they harvest about one week later than their neighbours, and acid adjust if required. They seek ‘vrai maturité’, real ripeness.

In the cellar, they use no oak at all, save for a little on their rare amounts of Grand Cru wines. All other wines are fermented and matured ‘cuve inox,’ in stainless steel tank, see full malolactic fermentation and extended time on lees.