Mewstone + Hughes & Hughes
— About —
THE BEGINNING
Brothers Matthew and Jonathan Hughes established Mewstone vineyard on the banks of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel in 2011.
Matthew recounts that tasting a now-defunct label from a vineyard planted in this very subregion inspired them to purchase a property, formerly a cherry orchard just meters away, and begin planting for Mewstone.
THE MEWSTONE VINEYARD
The 5.2-hectare Mewstone Vineyard sits on the edge, approximately 100 meters from the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, which separates mainland Tasmania from Bruny Island. Mewstone is one of only a few vineyards planted in this area, with most producers in the broader “catch-all” GI known as the Huon Channel, near the villages of Cygnet and extending up to Huonville.
Matthew mentions wryly that although the site is perfect for their vision of producing the best wines possible, if you were looking to establish a vineyard based strictly on commercial return you might look elsewhere to plant 🙂 The marginal climate coupled with daily sea breezes equals eye wateringly low yields.
D’ENTRECASTEAUX CHANNEL
JONNY HUGHES (WINEMAKER) EXPLAINS THE WHY
What are the unique characteristics in terms of climate of this sub region vs other the southern regions of Tasmania?
“I think what stands out about the D’Entrecasteaux Channel is its proximity to the water, which almost behaves like a lake, despite being the ocean, thanks to the protective presence of Bruny Island wrapping around it. The added UV we receive on the D’Entrecasteaux side is a key factor in our region. Early sea breezes from the water keep our site fairly cool, which is especially valuable in warmer growing seasons. Overall, it’s a bit cooler than most southern regions, but we get quite a bit of reflective UV from the water. So, it’s a bright site, but also a very cool one.” – Jonny Hughes
Is it slightly colder than the Coal River Valley due to being further south?
“Yes, it is. That’s largely due to the influence of sea breezes. We tend to cool off by midday, with our maximum temperature usually hitting around 12 or 1 PM, whereas in the Coal River Valley, peak temperatures occur two to three hours later. This results in a higher maximum temperature in the Coal River, and to some extent, in the upper Derwent as well. The upper Derwent has the largest diurnal range, with some of the coolest mornings but often some of the warmest late afternoons.” – Jonny Hughes
How far is the vineyard itself from the water? From the map it looks so close. Helps to mitigate frost one assumes along with the cooling factor?
“Around 100 meters, and perhaps even a little closer in the new plantings. Being this close to the water means we essentially don’t have to worry about frost. We’ve never seen frost during a growing season and wouldn’t expect to. Just the other morning, a frost hit some vineyards in southern Tasmania, but we were unaffected. Proximity to the water keeps frost at bay. Also, the UV reflection off the water provides a ‘double dose’ of light, which is crucial for ripening and makes a marginal site like ours just a little less marginal.” – Jonny Hughes
Are Huon Valley and D’Entrecasteaux Channel a separate GI or recognised as a distinctly different regions under the umbrella of the Huon Channel GI?
“Locally, the Huon Channel is regarded as a single GI that encompasses a broad area, including both the Huon Valley and the D’Entrecasteaux Channel. When we talk about regional distinctions, we generally refer to the Derwent, Coal River, and Huon Channel as the three main southern regions. One reason we don’t go into more specific classifications is the incredible geographic and geological diversity across the Huon Channel subregion.” – Jonny Hughes
How do you think the style of the Pinot Noir differs from other Tasmanian regions in terms of flavour/weight?
“For Mewstone specifically, it’s the tannin structure that really stands out. This is partly due to our low yields, the high UV reflection from the water, and an exceptionally long ripening season. Structurally, we achieve significant tannin levels, and because our berries are very small, we get a high skin-to-juice ratio, which greatly defines the character of our Pinot. Additionally, we achieve flavor ripeness at very low alcohol levels, around 12 baumé. Our extended ripening season is typically a week or two longer than most parts of Tasmania, and even three to four weeks longer than some regions.” – Jonny Hughes
THE FAMILY
Jonny is the winemaker in this family venture. He studied winemaking in New Zealand before working in Langhorne Creek (South Australia), Central Otago for Felton Road (NZ), Mornington Peninsula (Victoria), Barolo (Italy), the Hunter Valley (New South Wales) and Okanagan Valley (Canada). Heading home to Tasmania, Jonny worked in various roles within the local wine industry, before settling in as the Assistant Winemaker at Moorilla in Hobart for seven years.
It was then when Matthew his brother approached Jonny about the site on the D’Entrecasteaux Channel near the village of Flowerpot south of Hobart that Mewstone and their partnership was born.
HUGHES + HUGHES
The hughes + hughes wines are crafted from a selection of vineyards across Tasmania, including the Coal River, Derwent Valley, North West, and D’Entrecasteaux Channel regions. In addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Pinot Gris, the hughes + hughes range gives Jonny the freedom to explore beyond conventional varieties and winemaking techniques. The most experimental of these are his lo-fi, living wines, crafted without any added sulfur.