Granite Hillls
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ESTATE RIESLING 2023
Bottle Shot
Like all their varieties they are hand-picked and pruned. Each year the Riesling goes through a gravity fed system; no hard pressings just a gentle press with no high solids. No whole bunch, just destemming. They inoculate, rack off after ferment with a small amount of lees stirring. No residual at all. Llew tries to minimize the skin contact so as not to dull the aromatics. He finds it very important to control the phenolics so as to slow that kerosene character. The estate Riesling is made up of the Northern, Western and some Eastern fruit. Average vine age in the north and western end of the property
is still over 20-25 years.
RIESLING ‘1971 BLOCK’ 2022
Bottle Shot
The 1971 comprises of just the eastern site. This is the original site Llews father Gordon put down in the early 70s, hence its name. Winemaking is quite similar to the estate Riesling however the average vine age now is of course nearing 50 years. Predominate free run, some gentle pressings, no hard pressings. It’s key to Llew that there is a steady cool ferment, not too cold. Once again no residual and a PH of 3.0. No added acids like all their wines. The key for Llew is to showcase that natural sweetness. The eastern 1971 block of Riesling also has a very consistent acid structure. The balance of granite is also quite even in this section. The vines are at an age now where they can pierce through the granite with ease. Drainage is also slightly more idyllic as well in this section while also in the summer not capturing as much of the harsher afternoon sun as the gum trees in that section shield the 1971 vines.
Similar to the Gruner Veltliner, the inspiration to plant a small section of Pinot Blanc was around its ability to work well with granite soils and is success in cool climates. Like the Gruner, it has developed strongly in places like Alsace and Austria. With Llew’s belief that his pocket of Macedon is quite similar in terms of terroir he thought it wise to graft over a small section of Riesling and trial Pinot Blanc 8 years ago. The Pinot Blanc sits in the south west bank of the vineyard in one of the cooler sections of the property. Llew also picks the Pinot Blanc in mind with keeping a softer touch of acidity. Cool ferments, slightly longer than the Gruner and estate Riesling allow for the Nashi pear character to balance out those honey suckle characters and green apple characters. Llew believes the addition of Pinot Blanc allows for showcasing the versatility of Macedon and is a very underrated grape that he feels his region is one of the few places that can produce a fuller bodied Pinot Blanc like Alsace and still showcase its hint of spice and floral characters that he feels is integral in expressing the variety. 100% stainless steel with a moderate amount of lees stirring. Like the Gruner Veltliner, only 250 dozen is produced each year on average.
GRUNER VELTLINER 2022
Bottle Shot
The Gruner was the first alternative white variety Llew planted over 10 years ago after learning how well it grew beside Riesling and that it adapted very well to Granite bases soils. Grafted over his Shiraz vines in the warmer southern end of the vineyard. His aim here is to bring out elements of the Gewurztraminer characters with more aromatics while also striving for soft acidity. Llew notes that a big reason why wines like Gruner go so well with Asian cuisine is the lower acidity. He always keeps this in mind each year. The vines produce quite big bunches but he is always careful not to overcrop. Similar production to the Rieslings, cool ferments, small amount of whole bunch, no added acid. He has also grafted over some of his Cabernet with a Handorf Hill clone as the demand for Gruner grows more and more each year.
An outstanding year in Victoria and the Macedon was no exception to this. Warmer and riper year in the Macedon, the Chardonnay came in right on time. The Chardonnay sites at the southern warmer end and is made up primarily of the P58 clone. However he does have rows of 95 and 96. The 2019 is also the third year he has included the Bernard clone as well. The Chardonnay sees no Malo and went through extended time on yeast lees in tank. 30% in barrel and 70% in stainless. Barrels were made up of all French, 2 new and 2 seasoned across 10 months in total. Llew loves working with the taransaud barrels specifically as he believes they lend themselves beautifully to their cooler site and balance off so well against their fruit. Allowing the wine to retain that natural acid. He also prefers low firing and less toast. Average vine age goes back to 25-30 years. Llew finds it important to always look for that soft textural finish.
The Gamay sits at the north western end of the vineyard perched on the tip of the north slope where the land drops down off one of the bigger pieces of granite on their land as well as being one of the steepest sections. The hardy and ragged nature of Gamay makes this section ideal for the variety. No whole bunch at all, high amount of whole berries to allow for a natural tannin structure.
Llew does barrel ferment the Gamay across 5 barrels, 1 new and 4 old over 10 months. After tasting some cooler climate Swiss Gamay’s Llew has become interested in experimenting with small amounts of new oak. No carbonic at all. One of the oldest plantations of Gamay in the region, it has slowly become a variety that has gained much popularity in the area. 100% estate grown like all their wines. The Gamay section is comprised of 222m 15, RCV12 and BWG19 clones. Only 150 dozen made on average per year.
They now make 100% estate Pinot Noir every year after added sections to their block. In tougher vintages they have had to purchase a small amount. The two tonnes that make each year now allow them to rely on their land year in, year out. The Pinot sits in the Southern end (777 and 115 Clones) lining the Chardonnay and the dam. They also have more Pinot on both sides of the North slope comprised of 115, D5V12 and 114 clones. Totalling 2 tonnes of Pinot across all 3 sections. The East west section of each Pinot site is the warmer section of their vineyard, whereas the Northern End is the coolest as it lines up to the North peak (Heathcote end). Very minimal whole bunch each year, gravity fed with a high percentage of whole berries. Llew believes their sites really don’t need much whole bunch to add anything to the structure. 25% new oak on 100% French. 10 months in barrel. Llew always works with a lighter pre soak and always daily plunges. Not to over work but just to keep the skins wet.
THE GORDON 2015
Cabernet Blend
Bottle Shot
The Gordon is affectionately named after Llew’s father who planted these Cabernet vines, which are now the oldest Cabernet vines by far in the region at 50 years old. This wine is an ode to his father’s passion for Bordeaux varieties and calls it his sentimental wine. He fondly remembers his father and he disagreeing on how much water the Cabernet should require and smiles too himself each year as they pick this section. The Gordon is 80% Cabernet, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. All three varieties sit in the middle of the Vineyard on the North East slope lining the smaller dam. They always hold the Gordon back at least 5 years before releasing purely to showcase the wine at an older point. The wine sees 2 years in barrel with 1/3 new French oak. Llew does use a small portion of American Oak in the Gordon (10%). Over the years he has found using heading down boards to be successful in making the Gordon and the wine responds well to holding the cap of skins below the surface to ensure they stay wet.
The Shiraz is now sitting at an average vine age of 49 years. It was plated by Gordon Knight shortly after the initial plantings. The Shiraz sits at the south/south western end of the block (Cobaw Ridge side of the hill). The Shiraz is more of a Rhone style compared to the Heathcote styles seen at the northern end of Macedon and of course the Heathcote region itself. Gordon Knight planted shiraz not just due to its popularity but on that section of the vineyard due to its smaller granite soil breakdown similar to many areas in the Rhone Valley. Llew keeps Hermitage front of mind when making his Shiraz. It sees 2 years in barrels. 90% French and 10% American oak with 10% new French. Open ferment with hand plunging, no whole bunch at all and just a tad of whole berry. The south western side is technically the warmest section of the vineyard producing more of the white pepper character that has become synonymous with this benchmark Australian Shiraz.