Eleni et Edouard Vocoret


— About —

THE ESTATE

Edouard and his wife Eleni have Chablis running through their veins. Domaine Vocoret is a well established large estate, which when entering Chablis town from the North is impossible to miss. Edouard and Eleni wanted to start their own Domaine and in 2013 purchased 5 hectares from their Father + Grandfather. Eleni had been working for some time for Vincent Dauvissat and spent time in the early years mentoring them as they established their Domaine.

Back in 2015 when I first visited the Domaine to review their inuargual 2014 vintage Edouard was keen to tell me after working at his father’s Domaine for some years he had earmarked the spots he wanted, particularly the ‘Le Bas de Chapelot’ Lieu Dit which sits just under Montee de Tonnerre.  Wine making is consistent across all three wines. Wines are wild fermented in tank then elevage takes place in seasoned barrels for 12 months.

 “My dad never told us what to do, He said “Here’s your vines, you make the wine the way you want”. With his grandfather lending them the use of the garage for their first vintage and local legend Vincent Dauvissat (from whom Eleni used to work part time) on hand for advice, the couple began using techniques such as natural yeast fermentations and ploughing with the aim of expressing terrior. “I trained with Daniel Barraud in the Maconnais and fell in love with how he made wine. Most Chablis is only made in steel tanks, but that’s not what we are looking for. We want stoniness, saltiness and acidity, but use the old barrels to help smooth the wines out”. – Noble Rot – Wine from another Galaxy

 

THE VINTAGE – 2019
Introduction to the 2019 Chablis vintage from Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

“The 2017 vintage and, judging by my initial tastings, also the 2019s, are likely to offer longer-lived Chablis upon which Nature confers greater typicité. In the long term, I must admit to being concerned by the effects of global warming, which is robbing the region of the less heat-intensive summers, longer hang times and, crucially, cool nights that lock in the spine of acidity that lends Chablis its nerve and tension” – Antonio Galloni – Vinous

On 2018 vs 2019 – “This is the reason why my scores tend to be a notch lower than you might expect. I admittedly take a hard line on this matter and understand that when it comes to drinking and enjoying these wines, the score and attendant appraisal might seem unjustified. But I became more and more convinced that this stance is correct when I compared 2018s with their 2019 counterparts, not least when tasting complete portfolios and directly comparing like-for-like vineyards. Time and again, the 2018s came across as charming and seductive. It was only when I began tasting 2019s that their diminished “Chablis-ness” became abundantly clear. Of course, if we expand our purview to include the feted 2010, 2014 and 2017 vintages, then 2018 begins to look rather generic, even though many wines are delicious to drink in the short to medium term. Winemakers alluded to this shortcoming in conversation. For sure, they were able to produce Chablis that will give pleasure to consumers; however, few entertain profundity or offer intellectual rigor. ” – Antonio Galloni – Vinous

 

OAK VS STAINLESS STEEL
Commentary from Antonio Galloni – Vocoret and Duplessis winemaking both using oak

“Of course, there is the question of whether Chablis should be raised in oak barrels or in stainless steel; is the latter quintessentially more “Chablis” than the former? You could reasonably argue that case, though the two most feted Chablis producers, François Raveneau and Vincent Dauvissat, both raise their wines for two winters in oak, not to mention others such as Laurent Tribut or Gérard Duplessis, to name but two. Isabelle Raveneau commented that barrel aging does tend to impart more roundness to their wines, which she unequivocally said are “Raveneau before Chablis.” In my experience, it is the skill of the winemaker’s utilization of oak during élevage that prevents the oak influence from detracting from the wine’s identity and/or renders it barely perceptible. For that matter, racking my brains, I cannot remember a Raveneau that ever tasted excessively of oak, which acts more like an invisible guiding hand. Some growers have moved toward larger 500-liter barrels or foudres to minimize the impact of wood, mostly to great success; or, in the case of, say, Thomas Pico, used alternative vessels such as cement eggs” – Antonio Galloni – Vinous